Orvieto

When I checked the itinerary for this years Giro D'italia I was pleased to discover that the nearest stage to Rome would take place on one of the days that we were staying in the Italian capital city.

Purchasing the tickets and boarding the express train (from Naples to Milan) which left Rome at 12.30pm to cover the 60 miles to Umbria in an hour, was definitely an experience worth repeating!

Orvieto is situated on the flat summit of a large hill of volcanic ash. The site of the city is among the most dramatic in Europe, rising above the almost-vertical cliff faces that are completed by defensive walls built of the same stone. The white wine of the district, produced to the north-east of the city, is also highly prized

Leaving the station I took the funicular to the Piazza Cahen, where the fifth stage of the Giro would conclude later that afternoon at 5.15pm.




The 'circus' that accompanies the race was already in place as the excitable spectators started to arrive. But first there was an opportunity to explore the city with a visit to the Duomo (construction started in 1290), some ice-cream to consume and a browse around the local shops.



Only forty-eight hours earlier Belgian cyclist Wouter Weylandt had tragically lost his life during a descent of Passo Del Bacco, while yesterday in tribute his Leopard Trek team mates led the peloton home in a procession as a mark of respect. So it was a return to competitive racing today as Dutchman Pieter Weenings produced an outstanding solo performance to claim victory of the stage. The Rabobank rider timed his push for the victory with under 10 kilometres to go and despite struggling during the steep climb to the finish, led the field by 8 seconds and also secured the pink jersey as the leader of the general classification.



Spanish rider and current Tour De France champion Alberto Contador finished the stage without a saddle...........uncomfortable!!



After a scramble to board the funicular I caught the 6.15pm back to Rome after probably the best day of this particular visit to Italy.

The Banks of the Tiber

According to ancient legend, the city of Rome was founded in 753 BC on the banks of the Tiber.

So after a few days of acclimatisation and La Dolce Vita it was time to stretch the old legs and navigate parts of Rome that are mainly used by the local permanent residents.



With the intention of walking the 2 miles from our hotel to the Basilica at St. Peters Square, we decided to use the footpaths and cycleway immediately alongside the river itself.



The river has been confined since 1876 between high stone embankments. Within the city, the riverbanks are lined by boulevards known as lungoteveri, streets 'along the Tiber'.



To access the walkway we crossed the Ponte Palatino (below) before passing the Isola Tiberina in mid-stream, between Trastevere and the ancient center of the City.





The Tiber was critically important to Roman trade and commerce, as ships could reach as far as 100 kilometres (60 miles) upriver; there is evidence that it was used to ship grain from the Val Teverina as long ago as the 5th century BC.



Walking along the western bank we passed under three bridges before leaving the river banks to climb the Ponte Princ that leads past the Castel Sant' Angelo on the approach to St Peters Square.



Only a week previously over 2 million people attended the penultimate stage of the confirmation of Pope John Paul II (who must be one of the most popular Popes of the modern day) as a saint.



The scale of the Basilica itself is amazing and befits the head quarters of the Catholic Church.




Next on the agenda was a long trek along the walls of the Vatican City to visit the Sistine Chapel to see 'The Creation of Adam'- fresco's painted on the ceiling by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1512. Unfortunately taking photographs were prohibited.

Review Of 2010 - Part Two

Further brief summary of all of the walks that were carried out in the second half of 2010:

Monte Bollettora - 12 July 2010
European trip to the Lombardy region of Northern Italy.
Como to Brunate to Bollettora
Weather: Very Hot

Sarn Helen - 29 July 2010
Roman Road in Fforest Fawr
Mean Madoc standing stone
Weather: Warm

Grwynne Fechan - 5 August 2010
Trek in the Black Mountains
Circular walk to Pen-Y-Gadair Fawr and Waun Rhydd, the highest point in the range.
Weather: Dry and Mild

British Camp - 23 August 2010
Iron age hill fort
Herefordshire Beacon at the start of the Malvern Hills
Weather: Humid, Overcast, Warm and Wet

Twmbarlwm - 16 September 2010
Circular walk from Cwmcarn Visitor Centre to highest point in Gwent.
Stunning views across the Bristol Channel
Weather: Dry, Sunny and Cold

Kilpeck - 16 October 2010
Visit to Norman church in Kilpeck with a de-tour to Grosmont.
Weather: Overcast but Dry

Fan Gyhrych - 28 October 2010
Climb from Cray Reservior to trig. point on Fan Gyhrych.
Weather: Wet and Windy

Taff Trail - starting on 13 November 2010
Three sections of Taff Trail - Cefn Coed to Pontstcill, Rhydycar to Aberfan and Aberfan to Quakers Yard
Weather: Dry and Cold

Hen Rhydd - 10 December 2010
Majestic waterfall country while frozen
Weather: Cold

Bellagio

On the approach to Bellagio by ferry the whole village is laid out before you nestling at the 'point of the Lariano triangle' of Lake Como. The poet Shelley claimed Bellagio to be 'the pearl of the lake' and one of the loveliest towns in Europe. While Wordsworth described the area as 'a treasure that the earth keeps to itself'. The landscape also inspired music composed by Verdi, Rossini and Bellini.

But there is another element to Bellagio beyond the lake front tourist trap that I decided to try to discover.



Leaving the centrally located Piazza Mazzini directly opposite the pier, you reach the upper part of the town by climbing the steep steps of the narrow street - Salita Melia. The typical European architecture of the tight knit maze leads to the busy Via Garibaldi until I found the local Town Hall located next to the small Eleventh Century Romanesque church of San Giorgio.



On the opposite side of the road was a flight of steps that climbed up and then led down into the picturesque fishing village of Pescallo on the eastern shore of the promontory. The march of time elsewhere can rush into another millennia without anyone noticing or anything changing in this ideal setting!



Crossing the village square I sat on a bench to admire the magnificent surroundings framed by the steep sided mountain range of the Gringa (at 2,409 metres) in the background.



Leaving this idyllic fishing village the climb took me past a large nursery and olive grove that appears crucial to the local economy. Arriving at the main road for Lecco I enter Oliverio, a village which has taken it's name from the olive trees. This is actually the furthest northern most point in Europe in which olive oil is produced.



Arriving at the Villa Giulia, originally built in 1624, a grassy avenue called 'Vialone' stretches to the western bank of the lake allowing everyone to see both banks simultaneously. This long 'overgrown' geometrically aligned autobahnesque straight avenue was three-quarters of a mile long and about 30-yards wide with a single file footpath.



At the western end of the Vialone I came across an avenue of Cypress trees that perfectly framed the lake view. Passing the Villa Melzi on the lake shore you return to Bellagio along a colourfully cultivated parkland promenade.



I saw more lizards than people on the walk, which was a shame!!